Saturday, December 15, 2007

The robbery


To say Cambodia has a crime problem is an understatement. It's not hard to figure out that Cambodia has a problem with just about everything, except perhaps fertility, which is a problem as well. Foreigners, I sense, have less problems that the Khmers, but we have plenty of problems as well (in addition to the problems we brought here). Theft is common, and you learn not to leave any windows of opportunity, or you just don’t worry too much and know that your stuff will be stolen at some point, or both.

My house was broken into in October, and while I didn’t let it affect me too much, I realized it has affected me when my heart dropped recently as I saw a face in the window one night, only to realize it was a reflection from the TV (I think it was David Hasselhoff). Anyway, I was lucky, and now lock my balcony door. Here is an e-mail I sent to my local friends 2 days later:

“You know the phenomenon where you have to tell everyone ‘the story’ when you walk around with a caste on your arm? Eventually you want to pretend you are dumb and hand out pre-printed cards detailing the events. I fear it may eventually be the same with getting robbed. Some of you heard about it and have been checking in with me (thanks so much for your concern), so I thought I could save a lot of talking and write you all about what happened. For those with limited interest I can tell you that I am fine and it’s not a great story, but here it is...

While I was sleeping Wednesday morning, someone climbed to my 3rd story balcony and cut through the screen of my door (which was unlocked). I had my bedroom door mostly shut, and they grabbed my laptop, I-pod, phone, bag and camera. They took the stairs out, and broke the lock to get my motorbike as well. They left a pair of women’s shoes behind.

Yesterday was a long day of running around to get my phone number back, getting in an argument with my landlord, ‘making-up’ with my landlord, filling out the police report... At the end of the day I was truly moved that so many people helped me, including a restaurant manager who I grabbed to help me translate (for hours). No one would take my money (the landlord gave the cop $10, he is also a policeman). Everyone was concerned and supportive, and the Khmer’s feel genuine guilt that it happened to me in their country. Through the long day, I had a responsibility to not let any bad energy go to those around me and was called to be at my best. My cleaning lady came by to check on me while the cop was taking the report (I don’t know how this news got around so fast), and he asked her how long she had worked for me. I felt bad for her and had to make it known that we have a great relationship, mostly without language. The landlord is installing bigger metal barriers to make it harder to access my balcony from the neighbors, and I realized that they felt a lot of pressure that it happened on their premises, and remembered how they are always looking out for me and my moto. I haven’t slowed down too much to think about it a lot, but am doing fine and am finding many reminders of how lucky I am and all that I have to be grateful for. I do have my files backed up, and am slowly getting phone numbers back into my phone. I even have an extra laptop, phone, and I-pod.”

In the aftermath, I realized what a big deal a robbery is to Cambodians. For them, having a motorbike stolen is equivalent to many years of savings. One of the students mothers looked at me and conveyed the most sincere, empathetic ‘sorry’ you could imagine. They worry about me, and I love them for it.

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Cyclo (Psyclo) Ride in Angkor



On Dec 1st we participated in the Angkor Wat 50K bicycle rally, but we did it in cyclos. Pictured are Dennis, Michael, Katarina, as well as myself, who all alternated pedaling and riding. It was a great weekend, and well worth the effort since all the women were throwing themselves at me afterward (not really, but I kind of thought it was going to work that way). We placed last and 2nd-to-last (its hard to pedal those damned things). I thought often of my fellow MegaSaurass riders from the MS 150 in Colorado.